Even riding on I-90 was beautiful as it followed the Clark Fork for awhile. Then the Rattlesnake and Pintler mountain ranges came into view and I hardly felt like I was on a main freeway. I chuckled as I rode by the Rock Creek Tavern, home of the annual "Testicle Festival" (google it) where I once "had a ball" as the billboard proclaims.
A few miles later I approached the Bearmouth exit which is the exit I always took to ski into the Garnet ghost town. It's about a 10 mile drive to a parking area where you then have to ski the last three miles of the steep road into the town. I did this about ten times between 1983 and 2000. Each time a great way to decompress away from the modern world and job stress...no phone, no electricity, no running water, lots of chopping of fire wood and lots and lots of skiing away from the crowds.
So, as the exit approached, I turned on my blinker and for the next two hours traded the interstate for a remote gravel mining road taking me to one of favorite places on this earth. I knew that a full-size bagger like my Road King was not built for this kind of road. But I also knew that if I went slowly and carefully that I would make it. And, if the road was in too bad of shape, I would turn around and that would be that. After all, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
The first seven miles were hog heaven. A remote paved road following a Montana river with mountain ranges on both sides without another vehicle anywhere to be seen. Next was the Garnet mining road turn off. The road was still paved but much narrower,older, and in a pretty bad state of disrepair, potholes and loose rock. But it was certainly rideable with due caution.
After a couple of miles the pavement gave way to hard-packed gravel. Still passable, I continue. Then I met my first big haul truck on its way down. Still no problem. We saw each other in plenty of time to slow down and for me to pull over and let him pass. A mile later I rode into a little bigger operation involving several large trucks, large mounds of mine deposits and a large front-end loader. We worked around each other so that I could get by and continue my journey up the road.
I made it to the junction where you can take the steeper, but shorter, 3-mile "China Grade" which is what I always took when I skied in. Today there was only one choice. I was directed by one of the mine operators to take the longer 5 mile road which starts with a short steep climb. I approached the hill in first gear and slowly and gingerly made it to the top thinking that wasn't so bad. Encouraged by my steep loose gravel hill climbing ability I soldiered onward and upward.
The flat road soon became another steeper and sharper curve followed by another successful "summiting" which emboldened me more and finally, two miles short of Garnet, a hairpin turn on the steepest climb so far. Making most of the turn left my tires began to slip backwards due to the lack of power I was giving them. The turn was too sharp to goose it too much. First I panicked and tried braking and then starting up the hill again. Not working. I needed to get the bike stopped perpendicular to the slope rather than trying to stop its backsliding on the fall line i did manage to get to that position eventually where I stopped to catch my breath and wits before attempting pointing the King downhill on I what I now came to know as very loose gravel mixed with a number of loose, larger rocks that would send the bike on a downward, uncontrolled skid.
So downhill I gingerly inched. At times the front wheel would kick out to one side or the other but so far I was able to correct the skid and get the bike back on a controlled path downward. I did this for about the next mile. Then it happened without warning. The front wheel swung out, the bike went into a fall on it's left side ejecting me and throwing me to the ground. The first point of impact for me was my head and a rock. My first thought, "thank God I have my helmet on." Even at that slow speed, the momentum of my fall was enough to make a pretty hard landing. I was also lucky to be wearing my leather jacket instead of a short-sleeved t-shirt. I know that saved a lot of skin on both arms.
After getting up and checking for any damage to me I turned my attention to the Road on its right side in the middle of the road pointed down hill. Knowing that lifting the nearly 800 pound bike would be difficult, I took off the tour bag and saddle bags to lighten the load as much as possible. My first attempt to lift the bike upright failed. I then began to evaluate the situation and my limited options. Since leaving the fork in the road to Garnet I was 2-3 miles from the woman in the pickup with radio communications. I could leave my bike and hike down to her and radio for assistance. I could also sit tight and wait for someone to come along on their way to or from Garnet. I chose the latter. I didn't feel comfortable leaving the bike and all my belongings in the middle of the road. So I waited. No cell phone service. No sounds of traffic from above or below. After 30 minutes I was getting anxious. I needed to get down and back out to the highway soon if I was going to make Laurel, Montana yet today. I couldn't just sit there any longer. I recalled a video I watched a few times several years ago that demonstrated how to right a tour bike all by yourself. I needed to give it a shot.
First I lowered the side stand on the left side. If I'm successful in getting the bike upright I need to be able to lean it over to the side stand and not have to struggle with the upright bike to get the stand down. Then i made sure the bike was in gear so it would not start rolling it was. Next I faced the bike to get a hold on the rear and front engine guards. Harley service and parts people cringe when people call them crash guards, but that's what they are...u-shaped tubes of steel that extend beyond the engine and saddle bags to protect them from extensive damage if the bike should go down, as mine did. It looked like, from what I could see, they had done their job.
Now the instructional video requires you to stand with your back facing the bike, get in squat position, grab the bike and lift with your legs and not your back. Because of the position of the downed bike on the hill I couldn't get a very good purchase on the engine guards so I faced it full on, squatted and gave everything I had.
At first it felt like the bike wasn't budging, but then it lifted up a few inches. Encouraged, I gave one final push and the King came upright. I controlled its lean to the left as I eased its weight onto the side stand. The bike was upright and safely on its stand. Now to assess the damage.
The engine appeared undamaged. No apparent fluid leaks. No major dents, scrapes or scratches. Ten I noticed the left engine guard had a pretty severe bend backwards. In fact so much so that it was bent past the rear brake pedal and made the rear brake inoperable. This was not good. I considered removing it completely, but decided, since it was all ready bent, I would attempt to straighten it by giving it several swift kicks. It took several kicks to get it on the front side of the brake pedal and allow use of the rear brake. I would deal with a permanent fix once I could get to a Harley dealer.
My success was short lived. I tried to start the bike and it would turn over, but would quickly die. I tried this several times with the same result. So now I was back to my previous two options. I could wait for someone to be on the road and help me out of this fix. How, I wasn't sure and I had been here for at least an hour and no one. What happened next helped spur me into action.
About 100 yards down the hill I saw a brown bear come out of the trees and cross the road. I watched as he looked up at me but barely slowed his path across the road to re-enter the trees. Not sure where the bear was headed and realizing that I was indeed in an active bear area, I loaded the bike with the bags, put on my jacket and helmet and decided to roll the bike down to the road junction and radio contact with needed assistance. Since it was all downhill this turned out to be the right decision. The challenge was to keep from repeating what happened and have the front wheel slide on the gravel and loose rock ending up back on the ground with bike down. That's why I put the helmet and jacket on. If I did go down again, my head and arms would be protected.
Coasting downhill proved more challenging than I thought. The weight of the bike wanted to propel me down the hill. Braking would case the bike to skid in the loose gravel. It became a delicate balance of coasting and tender application of front and/or rear brake. In a little over 30 minutes I arrived at the junction, relieved to see the young woman in the truck. I rode the momentum of the last bit of downhill to a flat shaded area where the mine worker came over to hear about my trip to Garnet.
When she heard about my escapade she apologized for sending up there as if it was her fault. I assured her I was an adult and made the decision to take that road all on my own. She only pointed out the detour and gave me info on its condition. She asked if I needed any tools and offered me a cold soda. I told her I didn't think I needed any tools, but I would love a cold drink.
I enjoyed the cola as we visited and I learned her family owned the land being mined and she and her family lived up in the ghost town year round for the last ten years. She also spoke of seeing brown and grizzly bears in this area almost daily. She was surprised to learn that I traveled alone into this country, today and the past spring ski trips, without carrying a handgun. She told me she always has hers with her. Sure enough, there it was as well as the rifle in her pickup.
She asked if she should radio for help and we talked about the options that may be available. I knew AAA and HOG assistance would not come in so we were looking at getting a truck in and paying a pretty penny out of pocket for the rescue. Before making the call, I walked over to the bike and attempted one more start. To my delight it turned over and stayed running.
I checked the bike one last time, thanked the young woman for her offer of assistance and headed back out on the access road to pavement. In about 45 minutes I was back on I90 and shortly pulled into Drummond to fill the tank and call the Harley dealership in Butte to see about replacing my badly bent engine guard. After filling up I noticed a few drops of oil dripping from the bottom of the primary cover. When I talked to Copper Canyon HD, I told them I would like to have the biked checked out while I was there getting the engine guard replaced.
I got to Butte at 1:00 and was immediately put into the service bay and my bike was up on the rack. They didn't have an engine guard in stock, but one was on its way down from Great Falls. I waited in the showroom while the tech looked over my bike. Then the news. My primary seal was broken and needed Tom be replaced. Turns out it was going to happen at some point soon and not related to putting the bike down. All options were discussed and I decided it was best to have the work done now since I had over 3000 miles to put on the bike before getting home. That meant changing plans since the bike wouldn't be ready until the next day and, with the service mangers assurance, they would do their best to have it all completed by noon.
I ended up at the Copper King Inn and Convention Center close to the Harley dealership. What depressing place. It looked like it was built in the 70 s a and not much done to it since. But it was comfortable, quiet and clean.
Yes, the hot tub water really was green...
Funny deserted tennis courts that were time associated with the hotel. Looks pretty tight security is in place to prevent you from using them today...
I got a call at 11:00 Thursday morning that my bike was ready. I arrived at HD to pick it up to see them washing and drying my bike and making it cleaner than when I started the trip.
I was on the road by noon headed to Laurel, Montana, a great ride in beautiful weather that heated up to 100 by the time I got to Laurel.
I won't make the first night of the reunion as I'll be in the Black Hills. So I'll head tok Sioux Falls Saturday morning in time to make the main event...that is providing no more delays for repairs or weather.
Later.
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